FORD F 150 TRUCK SPARE TIRE LOCK ANTI-THEFT DEVICE (BOLTCUTTER PROOF PAT PEND)

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Price: $167.00    

Product Feature

• Anti-Theft
• Spare tire Lock for SUV's and Pickup Trucks
• For FROD TRUCKS that have spare tires under the Chassis
• Steel disk with a locking mechanism that closes in a circular manner

Product Description

You are buying the world famous DEFENDER Spare Tire locking device for Ford F-150 This patent pending device prevents the theft of spare tires on SUV's ,Pickup Trucks and vehicles that have spare tires outside the vehicle housing. Structural elements consist of a steel disk with a locking mechanism that closes in a circular manner obstructing access to the spare wheel nuts and mounting hardware. Spare tire/wheel assemblies are usually mounted below the chassis in the rear part of the vehicle. Tire Thieves crawl under the vehicle with bolt and chain cutters and cut the chain provided by the manufacturer and steal the spare tire. Existing solutions you see here on ebay are installing chains and cables that tie around the spare tire and the chassis, .....but these chains are also cut easily by the thieves. The cheap Solex spare wheel lock offered elsewhere is no good because it can easily be cut with a bolt cutter even though it claims to be made of "hardened steel". The cost of replacing new spare tire and wheel assembly can range between $ 800 and $1200 , plus installation hardware . F150 forum posts are recurrent with this problem You will be protected by the defender steel disk with a locking mechanism that closes in a circular manner obstructing access to the spare wheel nuts and mounting hardware.

FORD F 150 TRUCK SPARE TIRE LOCK ANTI-THEFT DEVICE (BOLTCUTTER PROOF PAT PEND) Review

Easily the most robustly designed, engineered and executed device I have seen to secure your spare tire. (and easily the longest review I've ever written...) Guaranteed to frustrate thieves!

I have a 2012 F150 FX4. To explain the photos shown with this device, & the install:

Assemble your 4 piece lug wrench / spare tire winch crank rod(s). Unlock the winch crank access lock by the rear license plate & remove the lock. Feed the rod / crank assembly through the hole into the black plastic rectangular funnel just above the top rear facing edge of the spare tire (just visible through the gap between the bumper and tailgate). Turn CCW. Lower spare to the ground, & push a little out of the way.

(NOTE: I did not have instructions included in the box when I received this, and there were no You-Tube videos to watch an example of the install. It was after the fact that I received a reply email from the vendor, which included the instructions to remove the winch bracket from under the spare tire, and to also unbolt and then remove the winch mechanism itself. While I did take off the winch mechanism bolts to put on part of the kit, I did not find it necessary to remove the winch wire / bracket from the spare tire, or to take down the winch mechanism itself. Just my experience.)

The first piece to go on is rectangular flat bracket with at least two bolt holes and a square slot cut out of one side of it, and which also has two approx 4-5" threaded rods welded on to the bracket (facing downward, toward the tire). ***NOTE: The photo included in the Ford F150 ad, with the diagonally oriented square cut-out in the middle, is actually the Toyota version of this part. The photo is wrong*** This gets bolted on to the underside of your truck's spare tire winch mounting bracket, on the lower / opposite side of the winch itself (the tire side). The kit includes two longer-than-OEM bolts to replace the two that hold the winch in place, but I found the factory bolts still worked fine.

You then raise your spare tire slowly (with the winch) and feed the two threaded rods extending down from the flat bracket carefully in through two of your spare tire's bolt holes. I had to use some very slight bending / adjustment of the rods to get them through the tire bolt holes.

Raise the spare tire up snug, as usual (factory manual suggests cranking on the winch handle very tightly, even to the point of the ratchet skipping. Per the manual, this *reportedly* won't harm the winch mechanism, and will prevent winch failure. Thats what it says).

Place the heavy (its probably 10 gauge or heavier) round "Defender" labelled plate up to the spare tire. On the back of the plate (not shown in photos) are two round, cylindrical extensions that come out of the back of the plate about 4-5". Feed the two threaded bolts coming down from the first bracket you mounted (now protruding down through the tire bolt holes and below your raised tire) and push the plate all the way up. The threaded bolts extend down into the round, cylindrical extensions a couple of inches.

The main Defender plate you just lifted up is held in place with two lug-nut sized threaded nuts which have unique ribs along their sides, which can only be driven in with the special extended socket included with the kit. The socket has two different lug wrench socket sizes that can be used to turn it (the OEM lug wrench will just fit over it, and can be used to secure the two lug nuts. You don't need to buy anything else). Screw on the lug nuts, tighten. Really no need to over tighten.

Rotate the yellow cover plate (about 1/4" steel), and secure with the included lock. The key is retained until the lock is closed. Three keys are included.

To get this off would require an inordinate amount of time to pry or cut the plates to get at the rods & lug nuts. Even if the hex nut center bolt of the front plate is turned, it won't come off because there is a locking nut on the other side. Even if the bolts face is ground off, the plate is still in the way (unless the lock is also cut). Even if the spare tire cable is cut, the Defender is still fully intact, locking the tire to the frame.

The only slightly weak spot I see is the lock itself. It's decent, but a hackzall or grinder could get through it in a couple of minutes. I would like to see another bracket welded on over the lock itself to better protect it from cutting (I may do this myself). But then a thief STILL has to figure out how to reach up into the two round cylinders attached to the back side of the front plate and get the two lug nuts set up inside of them off. I suppose one could hammer on a properly sized splined socket and try that (well documented on YouTube), but all in all, the entire process would simply take too long and make way too much noise. We're never going to keep someone who is persistent out, but we are definitely going to slow them down so they'll think about it.

Highly recommended. Total install perhaps 30 minutes + total, if you're organized. Only downsides: 1) It's expensive. 2) Having to pretty much get down on your side or back under the truck to unlock the lock and remove the Defender lug nuts & cover plate just so you can lower the spare tire (have a towel or mat, if you don't want to get dirty. If you have AAA, prepare to tip big). 3) Don't lose the lug nut socket or the key!!!! (or you may need more than a mechanic to get it off) 4) I fear that thieves will be so perturbed that they'll vandalize the heck out of the truck (or torch it) anyway.

Footnote: I've put on a lot of security stuff on this truck, as I have to park on the street (too many tools filling up the garage). I've seen too many stolen tailgates, popped door locks, stolen hitches, etc not too do something. I have installed several Jimmi Jammer products (door and tailgate anti-pry lock plates, hood latch cover box), a Master Lock tailgate (right removal hinge) lock, a Dee Zee tailgate assist (gas piston), a Pop & Lock electric tailgate lock, a factory gas tank locking gas cap, locking All Sales billet fuel door, a Master Lock Bed U-Lock, Diversi-Tech locking adjustable ball mount, and a Lock'er Down armrest console safe / vault. Other than perhaps the Lock'r Down safe / vault, this is easily the best security product I've installed (to stop jack-arse opportunity thieves. Cobra GPS alarm with all the sensors, and LoJack, are for the pro's). High freq piezo's, rumbler, strobe lights, and a rott are next.....

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